Mile 45- Dingle

Hi all!!!!

Can't believe we've already been here a week!!

We traveled westwards from Dublin Sunday morning and started the Kerry Way, traversing the center of the Southwest’s Ivaraugh Peninsula, passing by the highest mountain range in Ireland- Magillicuddy’s Reeks.

Throughout our walking, we passed through miles and miles of moorland- marshlands, covered this time of year by dry, yellow bumps of grass- to look at them is to see these little yellow bumps running along, marching to somewhere’s else. We also walked through two enchanted forests, dark and full of trees and rocks fury with moss- we walk quietly and fast, so as not to disturb the spirits and people of the woods ;) At one point, one side of the path was yellow bumps, the other fury green rocks, and we crossed through with the surreal awareness of other-world-ly life that exists around us here. It’s totally wild to feel the magic of this land, the souls that have resided and presided in its nooks and crannies for thousands of years.

The first day of Kerry Way goes through National Park. But from then on the trail goes through other people’s land- funny, a little, but it gives a nice window into society on the countryside. So here's what we've learned: Residents of Kerry own lots of sheep. No crops-just sheep (and a cow or a horse here and there). And we're not talking like a sheep or two to a household. Picture green, lush rolling hills, with thousands of sheep just hangin' out all over—and they are all having babies now so it's really funny to watch them--they run and play like puppies! A nice thought is that for the most part, these sheep are not for meat- just wool.

The farmland on our way is so remote!!! A single house surrounded by fields at the base of mountain in a secluded valley---these people live ALONE!! Only tiny winding roads to get them out.... and several of the towns marked on the map are just a few houses and a church scattered about in a valley (and a pub or two or forty)...it was really quite incredible to see the way they live...and they are all so friendly and their accents are so much fun to listen to. And much to our surprise there are all kinds of Irish accents that change from one county to the other.

A word about our first campspot- it was by a lake, with perfect views of the small, green, misty islands in the lake’s center. We wonder- which one of these islands beholds a stone with a sword stuck in it, waiting to be pulled out by the once and forever king? (We’ll never know, ‘cause come morning time we left the spot, abandoning our hopes of becoming the undisputed rulers over the British Isles).

Because of the private land thing, camping out is a puzzling matter. It’s kind of okay to sleep anywhere, but one needs to be discreet. One night we slept in the yard of a B&B, sharing the space with the family’s livestock. Another night we made camp at a picnic area on the side of a road. All in all- the sleeping’s been cold but peaceful, always accompanied by fresh air and pretty things in the distance.
It’s the end of the week, and we’ve moved on from Ivaraugh and the Kerry Way- and on to Dingle Peninsula and its Waymarked Way (the name for long distance trails in these parts). It certainly seems beautiful at first glance…We’ll be sure to let you know how it goes!

Shabbat Shalom from a pleasant corner of our world,

chana and yannai