Hi to all!!
Wow- what a last week and a half we just had: We completed our first thru-hike- the West Highland Way- a wondrous trek through mountains, past (and in) lakes, finishing with a grueling, but definitely rewarding climb up and down the UK's tallest peak- the snowy, windy, cloudy (apparently almost all the time) Ben Nevis.
The first half of the way goes along Loch Lomond- a long, perfectly blue lake- gorgeous from the outside- freezing, but mightily refreshing from the inside.
Next, we entered the Highlands- green and rocky, just like we imagined Scotland to be. Sometimes we walked through the hills, sometimes up and over- but wherever we were, we were met by stunning views- mountains either rolling or pointed, some snow-capped- and all, always with silver lines of water flowing down the sides.
Our first week was met with amazing sunny weather- like our first week in Ireland, we thought the rainy rumors were just a myth. But then the second week happened. And myth was most certainly proven true- we got totally drenched, blown, smacked in the face by hail, and slept through a storm more fierce than anything we've experienced. Sunday morning we woke to find half of the tents around us collapsed and our pitch for Shabbat --on a grassy island surrounded by a trickling stream--now surrounded by a knee deep rushing river. Eventually we made it off our island, and walked the good part of the day's 9 miles through rain. We spent the next night inside, and downed 6 cups of hot chocolate between us.
Eventually, several days later God made his peace with the walkers of the West Highland Way, and the sun came out.
But then Scotland's sun took its rightful position behind the clouds once more- and pretty much remained hidden till we left.
Most fresh in our minds and very sore leg muscles is the 12 mile hike up and down the towering Ben Nevis. A
big mountain we imagined it to be- but the beauty we enjoyed around us on the way up and down was a world away from what we expected.
The biggest surprise we were in for- was the fresh snow that escorted our feet up the last quarter mile to the summit. It was so much fun to walk through the snow! And the summit was the most eery feeling as the white snow below us, and the thick white cloud which enveloped us left our entire field of vision completely white.We walked up "the Ben" with friends we made along the West Highland Way- a truly sweet couple- Joerg from Austria and Andrea from Germany, who were visiting Scotland from their current home in Austria. Befriending them was definitely a highlight of our trip, and we hope to stay in touch with them in the future.
After a long, long, long descent down the mountain, we enjoyed dinner and some cider with Joerg and Andrea, slept like rocks- through, of course, more rain- and headed out to the train station in the morning- promising each other that we would visit Scotland again.We're back in Ireland now, in County Donegal, the Republic's northwest tip- ready for a week of a little more conventional touring, relaxing our joints and muscles- and catching as much traditional music as we can find- last night was our first of the week- an awesome fiddle/whistle/piper and guitarist.
We're excited as ever, and are beginning to dream about the homemade meals we are going to eat when we get to New York (that's a lie- we've been thinking about that for the whole month...)
Just two sustainability thought for the road: One: Chana made the important point that Yannai must wash his underwear often when living in the backcountry- to do otherwise is not sustainable.Two: That morning when we were caught with knee deep water between us and the trail- Yannai walked right in without thinking and got soaked. Chana waited a few minutes till Chan and Yan found a dry escape- and came out okay. The lesson: Sustainability (in this context, being able to walk for a 'sustained' time without getting wet and uncomfy) means patience.
Catch you soon,
Chana and Yannai
